anna.yhshihAs life goes back to normal and people come back to the office, more formal wear like tailoring suits is increasing in menswear 23 autumn and winter in Milan and Paris. However, since life has changed dramatically during the pandemic, people are more likely to mix style between causality, formality and street styles. So even formal wear becomes loose to offer a relaxing manner, rather than well-cut and slim suits.
Additionally, the unpredictable economy pushes consumers to chase something timeless and can keep for longer. Therefore, some classic and elegant shirts and delicate tailoring are coming back.
Also, as brands look to balance fashion and heritage, designers adapt signature elements from the brand’s backstory. However, some colourful paintings or drawings as patterns still provide vivid art style, and it goes well with layering outfits as one of the most important trends for this season.
Here are also some highlights of men’s fashion week in Milan and Paris as physical runways come back. Colm Dillane of KidSuper as a guest designer, contributed to the Louis Vuitton 23 AW men’s collection since the sudden death of its creative director in 2021. He worked with the in-house team of Louis Vuitton to complement the elements like bold colours and patterns and flowing suits of Virgil Abloh at the brand.
Marine Serre also showed a concept of upcycling. Her collection showed at Grande Halle de La Villette, filled with 8-metre-high dumped clothes and textiles. And this waste will all become the source of future material for the next collection.
Gucci presented its collection with the in-house design team after the creative creator Alessandro Michele’s departure from the brand last year. There were items like workwear, signature bags and shoes to nod to the Tom Ford era in this transition period. (Gucci announced on 28 Jan 2023 that Sabato De Sarno would take the House’s Creative Director role, and his debut of the brand will be at Milan Fashion Week in September 2023.)
Significant trends
Sophisticated formal wear
Suits are coming back as people go back to the office. However, the more easygoing style offers a comfortable fit. Clean lines, luxurious materials and simple silhouettes give a polished look. However, loose shirts, wide-leg trousers, and oversized tailoring blazers with dropped shoulder or cocoon-shaped coats present a more casual style to meet daily life.
Casual street layering
Check shirt, puff vest, and spilt skirt, all put together to create many layers to show the mix-and-match style. Also, different patterns can all be put together to deliver a bold and visually catchy style.
Bold colour and pattern
Compared to formal wear or casual mixup, bold contrast colours and exaggerated psychedelic patterns make menswear more dramatic. It successfully offers an atmosphere of contemporary art and makes menswear more fun and street style.
Key items and details
Oversized long coats
The ankle-length long coats are definitely a key item in Milan and Paris. Dropped shoulder, oversized silhouette and straight shape provide a contemporary and simple style. Usually, it is within natural colours like camel, brown or grey, timeless and can be kept for a long time. It can also be classic black and the light colour like white or cream increasing.
Hoodies and pockets are practically welcome
The hoodie is utilised and easy to wear. Also, mutual pockets go well on cargo trousers and offer a masculine and military style.
Puffer or quilting jackets and vests
Fluffy volume gives insulation and helps to trap heat, making them a popular option for chilly weather. It is also good to make a casual style more layering.
Check or plaid
Check elements provide layering and casual style in menswear 23AW. Skirts with splits are also good for wearing outside trousers and give a mix-and-match fashion. Patchworks also offer a handmade feeling and a nostalgic mind.
Colourful painting or drawing pattern
Psychedelic patterns return to menswear to show the aesthetic of the brands. Brands worked with artists to put painting and drawing into the design to create fun and fascinating. Mixing various abstract patterns to build a mess, but actually, it is interesting to mix different materials.
Natural colour
Earthy colours like beige, brown and olive green play key roles in menswear in 2023 autumn and winter. They can easily create layers with various patterns and be classic with coats to present a timeless style.
