anna.yhshihFashion houses have dramatically changed, and luxury brands have adopted two strategies. One seeks to refocus consumer attention on the brand’s value, while the other aims to generate hype.
Gucci recently appointed Sabato De Sarno, who previously served as the creative designer for Valentino since 2009. Similarly, Bottega Veneta set Matthieu Blazy, originally the RTW Design Director for the house, as creative director to replace Daniel Lee in 2021. These two have in common that they used to work behind the scenes in fashion houses and are not well-known to consumers.
In contrast, Louis Vuitton recently announced that music producer Pharrell Williams will be the new Men’s Creative Director. With over 1.3 million followers on Instagram and famous for his streetwear style, Pharrell is expected to bring a different perspective. The new CEO of Louis Vuitton, Pietro Beccari, said that he expects Pharrell Williams to showcase his creative vision beyond fashion and lead the brand into a new chapter.
It’s difficult to determine which approach is superior. Pharrell’s appointment is certain to attract significant attention, and his streetwear aesthetic will expand the brand’s reach to new audiences. In contrast, Kering, another luxury conglomerate, seems to have adopted a more conservative strategy emphasising its brands’ history and the quality of their products, particularly in the wake of declining sales and brand fatigue.
However, the recent debuts of Daniel Lee at Burberry have shown some success. Although some may argue that the first collection didn’t live up to expectations, it has already sparked discussions on social media.
Celine is a great example of this success. Hedi Slimane, the superstar designer, has incorporated elements from the brand’s history while introducing his signature sexy-rock style. When he first took over from Phoebe Philo, most people didn’t expect much, but he revamped the Triomphe bag from the 80s into a new IT bag today and launched the first men’s collection. He is also good at social marketing, like appointing the Korean girl group Blackpink’s Lisa as a brand ambassador. He successfully created his new Celine era with extraordinary creations and marketing strategies.
In conclusion, the fashion industry has seen different strategies among luxury brands in recent years. Some prioritise brand heritage and product quality, while others seek to generate buzz and appeal to new audiences. Success depends on finding the right balance for each brand, and recent debuts and appointments show that there is no one-size-fits-all solution. Ultimately, fashion houses that can balance promoting their brand heritage and generating hype will likely be the most successful in the long run.
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